Fly from Nice to Krakow

This is a city of at least four faces. That of Madonna, for starters. The bishop of Krakow was one Karol Wojtyła, also known as Jean Paul II, giving the city a strong Catholic presence. You’ll often pass nuns, monks, and clergymen in the streets. This devotion translates into an incredible number of churches, including Wawel Cathedral and the famous Saint Mary's Basilica.
Another of the faces of Krakow is its bourgeoise side! Krakow may have lost its status as capital a few centuries back, but that hasn’t stopped it from cultivating a certain refinement. Just look at the Renaissance palaces and mansions in Stare Miasto, the old town, which is at its loveliest when experienced hand in hand with that special someone.
The third face of the dragon city is the most poignant: that of a martyr, of a community of Jews living in peace and harmony until the Nazis arrived. Ghetto Heroes Square (in Podgorze) tells the story of this atrocity, as do Oskar Schindler's factory and the walls of the death camp of Auschwitz.
Krakow’s fourth face is a bit more joyful: that of youthful innocence. You can see it in the streets and alleyways of Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter. Have a bite to eat there for next to nothing. Drink and dance till the early hours of dawn. An experience not to be missed, whether as a couple or with friends.

• Climb Wawel hill, the heart of power in Poland during the Middle Ages. Visit the cathedral and the castle before heading back down towards the banks of the Vistula via the Dragon’s Den of Krakow, at the end of which you’ll get to see that famous fire-breathing monster.
• Make a stop at the Main Square, Rynek Glowny, Europe’s largest medieval square. Everything here is superb: The Cloth Hall with its many areas dedicated to local craftsmanship, the Town Hall Tower, and of course, Saint Mary's Basilica.
• Listen out for the Hejnał. This traditional melody is played by a trumpeter from the top of Saint Mary’s Basilica every hour on the hour. Afterwards, visit the basilica and admire the altarpiece by Veit Stoss, one of the Middle Age's most important artists.
• Reserve your visit to Auschwitz and Birkenau, the Nazi death camps which are a little over an hour from Krakow. Do note that access is highly regulated, so it’s important you book passes through a local tour operator.
• Celebrate the memory of the country’s most famous citizen by visiting the Sanctuary of Jean Paul II. The Pope’s cross, mitre, chasuble, and vial of blood: the centre has many relics of the former Bishop of Krakow.
• Go down into the mine! The Wieliczka Salt Mine is a World Heritage Site and offers an unforgettable tour nearly one hundred metres under the earth. A lake, a church, salt sculptures and numerous demonstrations and explanations complete your visit.
• Linger in the streets of Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter and realm of Krakow’s night owls. On the menu: street art and street food, lively bars (don’t miss Café Singer, an institution) and delectable restaurants.
• Eat on the go and pick up a grilled zapiekanka on Plac Nowy, where they're made to order in any of the many stalls in the Okrąglak (rotunda). You’ll be feasting on a half baguette lavishly garnished and grilled to perfection. Scrumptious, filling, and better than another burger!
• Eat Polish-style in a “mleczny” bar, milk bars popularised by the Communists. You won't find any milk in these inexpensive restaurants, but you will find excellent traditional dishes. The best: Grodzki bar in the old town.
• Sample the favourite cake of Pope Jean Paul II, which tempted him into the sin of gluttony. What’s it called? The kremowka, a kind of Polish mille-feuilles. The Cukiernia pastry shop makes the very best.